Archive for Southern R2 Builders Group A Place for Star Wars Fans
 


       Southern R2 Builders Group Forum Index -> Styrene Droid Tutorials
admin

Styrene Skin Tutorial

Now that your frame is ready for skinning, Here's how you do it.
If your cutting your own skins, I recommend using Chani's Skin Files.
You can download them on the R2 Builders Yahoo Group.
The reason I like Chani's Files, It cuts down on how many cuts you will have to make to get everything the way it should look.
You can also buy etched skins from Chani for $55.00 and this will make things much easier and faster.

Starting with the inner front skin. Position it as best as you can and tape it into place. Check all the door openings if you plan to have them open.
The inner skins are easy to set.



Now tape the rear inner skins to the frame.



Check the sides and all over for anything that looks wrong.



If everything looks good, Use VERY LITTLE Weldon 3 and start bonding the skins to the frame from the inside.
Start bonding near the top and don't rush this part. If you use too much Weldon 3, It will melt the skins and create flat spots from frame rail to frame rail. Some of the inner skin will be seen from the outside and flat spots will look bad. It takes so little Weldon 3 to bond the skins you will think it won't bond, But it will.
Let this dry overnight and then add the outer skins.
Calvin
admin

Now that the inner is dry, You can set the outer skins.
This part is VERY IMPORTANT!!!
The outer skins give you all the detail, So don't rush.

Start taping the front skins and check all the gaps around each opening and any area that has a offset.
Tape the skins anywhere you can to keep the alignment from shifting.



Now tape the rear outer skin into place.



Now that everything is taped and aligned up, You can start bonding the outer skin to the inner skin. Again, Use VERY LITTLE Weldon 3 or it will melt the skins and your droid will look like it's melting.

After the skins are good and dry. You can add the detail parts that give you the 3D image your looking for in a droid.
Use the tape to set each part and bond. If your droid has painted areas behind the detail part, You can do 2 things.
Tape the detail in place and pencil mark the area to be painted. Remove the detail part and tape around the painted area and the entire droid and paint or bond the detail part and tape around this area and paint later.
Both ways work.

There's not much to this tutorial and as always use Dave's pictorial as you build.
Now onto the shoulders.
kerrie

I have the frame done and I'm looking at Dave's tutorial on the skins, I ordered Chani's skins.  I was hoping it would tell me what I need to cut out on the inner and outer skins but it does not.  It just says if I want opening doors to cut them out.  Can you help me with this?  Thanks
admin

I have'nt used Chani's skins yet. Hum.
When you get them post a picture of them and we can help you.
I think but I'm not sure, Todd may have used these skins and I think Mike has used them also.
Calvin
Blsith

admin wrote:
I have'nt used Chani's skins yet. Hum.
When you get them post a picture of them and we can help you.
I think but I'm not sure, Todd may have used these skins and I think Mike has used them also.
Calvin


I should be getting my skins in my Chani sometime in the next week or so.  If nothing else I can probably post up some copies of mine.
kerrie

Calvin, did you use Chani's files to make your skins.  I have an inner and outer set.  I also found this blog but the top of the frame looks different than mine so I'm not sure if I should follow this build.

http://www.barrettandcarly.com/blog/skins/
admin

Yea, Chani's skin files are AWESOME and I always use them.
That Blog looks like Dave's skin files which are the same but Chani cuts down on the amount of cuts.
The frame on that blog is a modified Dave frame. They added a slipring cross bar to supply power inside the dome.
Not sure if that's a good or bad thing, But it may be a handy idea.
Calvin
kerrie

I have found my utility knife strays sometimes when I am cutting along the scored lines on the skins, so I have a few scratches on my outer skins.  Can I buff these out or is there another way to hide these?  I am cutting along the lines slowly, but my knife will still slip on occasion.  Also, when I am cutting out the boxes on the outer skins, I have noticed some of the lines are not perfectly straight.  Can I buff the edges to make it look smoother and straighter?  Thanks!
admin

If the cuts are just slightly off you can sand the edges and adjust the detail skin parts.
I have areas that are not perfect on my droid and this adds a personal touch to the droid.
Slight slips or blade scratches can be smoothed out with auto body glazing putty. You can get it at any auto parts store.
Calvin
kerrie

Thanks Calvin for answering me on Christmas!  I have heard some people have used Krylon white primer and Rustoleum Satin White for the paint. Then duplicolor acrylic clear enamel.  I didn't think I would need to apply anything to my skins.  What are you thoughts on this?  Did you use anything?

Merry Christmas,
Kerrie
eagledancer

kerrie wrote:
Thanks Calvin for answering me on Christmas!  I have heard some people have used Krylon white primer and Rustoleum Satin White for the paint. Then duplicolor acrylic clear enamel.  I didn't think I would need to apply anything to my skins.  What are you thoughts on this?  Did you use anything?

Merry Christmas,
Kerrie

the problem with leaving the skins without paint is it is way TOO white. r2 was a off white almost a eggshell (but not quite that creamy)
if it is too white it washes out in photos and become a blur. it also happens when you dont add weathering. most photos of my droid with flash you cant make out all the detail. i am planning on doing some light weathering to bring out the detail better

todd
kerrie

Is the Krylon white primer and Rustoleum Satin White for the paint and the  enamel the way to go or do you have any recommendations for me?
admin

If you have areas that you had to do some putty work you will need to prime that area, Then sand the primer slick.
On the paint, I would use Krylon on the styrene instead of Rustoleum.
Krylon tends to stick better and you can get Satin white in Krylon.
The clear coat is kind of a personal choice. Brenda or I did not clear coat our droids. It depends on what type of look you want from your droid.
Calvin
Danf

I didn't paint any of the white on my styrene droid but did recently weather it. Calvin is right, before the weathering it washed out bad in photos. (See pics in this thread  http://southernr2.myfreeforum.org/about120.html) I think I remember someone saying that painting it also protects it from sun damage  (yellowing and becoming brittle) . I haven't had any problems yet but he does spend 99% of the time indoors with florescent lighting .
kerrie

Where can I get more information on weathering?  Do I do all of the painting/weathering before I put the skins on the frame or after the skins are attached?
kerrie

wow! the weathering makes quite a bit of difference, can you please tell me how to do this?  Thanks
Danf

I found this very helpful.  http://www.heiko-heinitz.de/Weathering_Tutorial.m4v  use water based paints - I actually used a kid's water-colors set. Vid from astromech.net thread here    http://astromech.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2909
Dan2205

Styrene Skin doors?

I am planning on making my skins out of styrene. However, I want all the doors to open. I understand the skin keeps its "curve" because it is attached to the frame or at least pulled tight against the frame. My question is what keeps the open doors "curved"? I thought gluing the two skin layers would help keep them curved, but I asked Chani and she said that the layers helped, but you need "spines". She also said Dave E. had "spines" in his styrene droid plans. I searched the Dave's plans and could find nothing about door "spines". So my question is, how did you guys do it? And does anyone have door "spine" templates or know where I can find them? Does anyone have any other ideas? I have found this is a difficult topic to find info on.
eagledancer

alot of the doors on my droid open and its styrene skins
BEFORE glueing add curve to the door and the flange
then glue while holding in a curve (i used super glue)
once glued they stay put pretty well. i have noticed some difference with temperature sometimes a corner sticks out a little. but its really not that noticeable
Dan2205

Thank you for the reply. When I saw that the last post was almost two years ago, I wasn't sure if I'd get a reply. So the best bet is to cut the panels out on the inner skin, tape them back in place, wrap around the frame, then glue the outer skin on to the bent inner skin? Thank you for the help!

Dan
admin

On the inner skin, Cut out the areas which have a part to be added in the hole. Such as:
Octagon port, power couples etc.
I plan to have 1 large door and the charge port on mine open and I cut these.
Just remember for doors leave enough flange for the door to have something to close up to.
There is some door wedges in Daves plans but I like the way another builder made a inner door panel. Ill get a link to the guys site.

Todd is very good with the doors also.
But I would recommend a meet with Todd to get it right the first time.
He also knows how to servo the doors, Which I will need help with also.
Calvin
eagledancer

no dan, after cutting the inner door pieces out dont tape them back in place. put them to the side and install your inner skins. then install your outer skins, the doors are done by themselves OFF the droid

       Southern R2 Builders Group Forum Index -> Styrene Droid Tutorials
Page 1 of 1
Create your own free forum | Buy a domain to use with your forum