Styrene Outter Feet (Modified for Scooter Motors)I'm going to start this Tutorial, Due to the fact that I'm confident the design will work without any problems. Even with this being said: I would wait until the final part of this Tutorial is complete and tested.
Most of the parts have not been Modified to build Dave's Outter Feet just moved into different locations. I have added a few tricks to get the Scooter Motors to fit.
I'm currently waiting on the Drive Belts to arrive so I can test the feet and give it the OK.
You will find as you build the feet there is no room for mistakes and everything fits like a glove.
Make sure you build on a flat surface and keep every part square.
Take your time with this build or you will have problems.
Do to the fact these feet where never designed for the Scooter Motors,
I have found that the Battery Boxes will have to be 1 inch longer than normal. It's not any change in the size of the foot, Just the fact that the Scooter Motors take up more room than the Jaycar Motor.
Or you can shift the Battery Boxes back further on the foot, But I recommend longer Boxes.
The foot is completed now and it works and is very strong.
I'll work on completing the Tutorial.
1st Cut up the Ankle Slot Channel parts from Dave's plans.
I suggest cutting completely through the Styrene, This will leave clean edges that will not need sanding, Also DO NOT BEVEL THE EDGES as in Dave's Plans. I will tell you why as we go through the build.
After you have them cut, Use a bolt to assist in the alignment as stated by Dave. Use a small bolt about 1/8 in diameter, This will not leave room for mistakes and slop as a larger bolt will do.
Use Weldon to bond the 2 side plates together and use the bolt to get it aligned correctly.
Now bond the 2 part side plate to the bottom plate, Use Dave's bevel line as a guide to set the 2 part plate side to side.
Make sure you square every part!!!
The Metal plates I'm using are only to hold the parts in place.
Once this side has dried, Glue on the opposite single layer side making sure the bolt is in place to keep the alignment correct.
DO NOT CUT OUT THE AREA WHERE DAVE'S MOTOR WAS PLANNED!!!
Once the Channel has fully dried, You can add the 1st Main Plate.
Please excuse my scribbling, It was just me thinking with my pencil.
From here on I won't remind you to keep everything square.
And don't worry about the bevel on the channel yet.
THINGS START MOVING NOW!!!!
The 2 plates from Dave's plan are the same size just relocated for the Scooter Motors.
Here's the measurement I used to relocate the 2 plates.
2-7/16 seems to be the magic number.
The measurement is taken from the sharp point to the side of the Plates on each end of the Main Plate.
Let this fully dry.
Now you can cut the Scooter Motor Holes.
The best way I found to get the hole in the correct position is to set the 3-1/8 hole saw
down into the area for cutting. It should almost touch the bottom and the Plate you just installed. The hole is larger than the Scooter Motor and if you need to trim the hole, It can be done later.
These 3 pictures should help explain.
Working on the opposite site, Use Dave's parts in the relocated spot.
Remember which foot you are building and build the second foot in reverse or you will have 2 feet for the same side.
The Battery Box side of the foot, The 1st plate is measured at 5-13/16 from the Main Plate point to the side of the new plate.
This will allow the Scooter Motor room and fit in the foot.
Add the 2nd plate from the rear point of the Main Plate to the side of this new plate at 3-9/16.
Add the 2 top plates to each of the new side plates and allow this to dry.
I know the picture shows the bottom plate, But this is not bonded yet.
We will cover this soon.
The large flat plate that is the Main Bottom of the feet will need to be beveled as Dave has in the plan.
Add to your assembly a Side Plate between the 2 Dave Plates as shown in the picture. The measurement for the plate is: 2-1/8 x 8-5/16
To get the correct depth for this plate. Set the assembly on a flat surface and slide the plate between the 2 side plates and when the top edge is flush with the edge of the side plates bond it in place.
Now set the entire assembly on top of the Main Bottom Plate.
Square the assembly with the bottom plate as best you can. You can use the bevel edges to help square, But DO NOT BOND YET!!!!
Outline the entire Assembly, This will make it easy to put it back after you modify the Bottom Plate.
It should look like this:
In the area opposite from the Battery Box side, You will have a boxed area.
This is where the wheel will set. Mark this area with a pencil and remove the assembly so you can cut out this area.
It will look like this once your finished.
Now Bond the assembly to the Bottom Plate and let dry.
On the Battery Box side, You will glue the next Main Plate.
Go ahead and drill the Ankle Bolt hole just as Dave said in his Tutorial before you glue the Plate.
This Plate sets right on top of the notch that was created when you glued in the lower Battery Box Plates. Use the Bolt hole to align the Plate into position.
Allow this to dry and re-drill completely through the Ankle Bolt Holes with
a 5/16 drill bit. This is the size bolt I'm using, The Droid is so light weight you won't need more than 5/16.
The 2 Top Plates can be bonded into place also.
The only side that I beveled on the 2 Top Plates was the smaller Top Plate opposite from the Battery Box. The others will get beveled soon.
Now using a Mouse Sander, Sand down the front keeping your Mouse flat against the 2 Larger Main Plates. Take your time and this will bevel the Lower Flat area of the Ankle Channel, 2 Top Plate and will leave you with perfect joints.
Also sand the sides of the Ankle Area near the top where the 2 Top Plates meet with a Sanding Stick. DO NOT SAND the Battery Box Side in the picture above, The small HANGOVER is needed later in the build.
This part is alittle confusing, But I will do my best to show how to cut the Motor Hole through the Side Plate.
Using a 3-1/8 Hole Saw, Slide it up to the area on the Battery Box side of the foot. Mark a pencil mark around the Hole Saw, This will have to be cut out using a Dremel.
In the Picture above you can see I added a Small Plate that measures 5-1/4 x 1-3/4, This gives the Axle area more strength. You can Cut and Bond it into place.
Also in the 1st picture the Battery Box side in the Axle area will get 2 Plates that measure
4-1/8 x 1-3/4, This also beefs up the Axle area.
DO NOT BEVEL ANY OF THESE PLATES!!!
Bond on the Front and Back Facial Plates.
On a flat surface, Even them up side to side. There is a scratch line from Dave that will help you line up the Plates. Pay close attention to the area where the Front and Back Plate meet at the top corner. This needs to be flush at this corner of the Small Top Plate and The Front/Rear Plate so you will have a clean joint.
You will have some overhang at the top and in the Ankle area. This is normal.
Allow this to fully dry.
Once dry, Sand the top of the Front/Back Plates smooth with the top plates and sand the Ankle area.
This will leave you with a a tight smooth joints.
On the Battery Box side,
Skin this area.
Now sand this area flat, There should not be much to sand.
You just want to get it flat and smooth.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO SAND THE SLOPE OUT OF THE FRONT/BACK FACIALS!!!
Then re-trim the Motor Hole with a Dremel.
I'm going to leave this post, So I can come back and edit it for the measurements of the Wheel Axle Holes.
I'll have the measurement in about 1 week so you may want to start building the other foot up to this point.
The Belt has arrived and it has been tested and all works GREAT!!!!!!
I'll finish the Tutorial as if we have done the Axle Holes and are ready to move on.
Add the Motor Support Plate and there is 2 Plates in this area.
The first Plate measures 3-3/8 x 1-3/8. Make sure you fit it up into the angled corner of the foot. You can see the Second Plate how it fits on top on the 1st Plate. It measures 3-3/8 x 2-1/2. This will space the motor to the correct depth and it also has 1 bolt from the Motor so the entire load is not on 1 single area.
You can see how the Motor will set once we get the foot ready.
Those 3 Motor Bolt Holes you have been seeing for awhile are no Good.
It was my 1st attempt.
Now add a Small Plate to the Motor Mount area. The measurement is
3 x 2. This adds to the strength of this area and you can also see how the Motor bolts to both Plates.
Here again, I'll have to get the measurements for the bolt holes.
Add the thin Strip that Dave say's not to throw away to the bottom of the foot on the Battery Box side. After it dries, Sand the Curved supports to match the areas where they join.
Now we can Skin the Battery Box side of the foot. I used some thin Styrene that was probly .20, It was half the thickness of the Body Skin which are .40.
Cut a sheet larger than the area to cover and wet the flat area of the foot and the Curved Main runners and apply the thin Styrene.
When wetting the foot with Weldon, Just run wiggly lines all over the flat area but don't over do it and hold the Styrene down with just enough pressure to keep it in place and message the flat area to get the Weldon to spread.
Having help with this part makes it much easier.
After it tacks up, Run a small amount around all the edges so they will not peel up. It sounds harder than it really is.
Here's what you should have:
After the Weldon has dried you can actually trim around the foot with a pair of scissors. Don't try to trim to close, Just get some of the excess Styrene out of the way.
Now sand with your Mouse Sander and this is how it will look.
After the Sanding, Apply another sheet of Styrene on top of the 1st.
This will make the area strong, Just be easy on the Weldon so it doesn't burn through the .20 Styrene. Do all the edges with Weldon and after it dries, Sand the Styrene just like you did the 1st and it should look AWESOME!!!!
Now we can close the Door Side of the foot.
In Dave's plan he uses different size Styrene sheets to get the correct look, But I wanted the side to be as strong as the rest of the foot.
I used 3mm to build the Side Panel.
1st lay the foot on some Styrene and trace around to give you the general shape needed to close the side then cut it out.
Using that old cheap Krazy Glue with a brush you get at Walmart,
Put a little on the end of the foot and adjust the Side Panel to fit.
Let the glue dry and this will give you a temporary bond so you can sand the sides of the Panel to fit the foot perfectly. The Krazy Glue can now be popped apart and the panel is ready for the next step.
Tack spray Dave's Side Panel Print onto some .40 Skin Styrene.
Cut off the outer Band and it should fit the 3mm Side Plate.
It will need some sanding but not right now.
Now cut off the skinny band and this is the Plate to save in the Picture.
Lay the Outer Band on a flat surface and then lay the Side Panel Plate on top of it. Square it up the best you can, All the way around.
Then run the Weldon all around the outer sides.
This creates the banded edge around the side of the foot.
After it sets a few minutes, flip it over and run a very small amount of Weldon to the inner edges and put alittle weight in the center to keep it flat and let this dry.
Now to set the Door Panel.
Cut out the panel from Dave's plans and lay it on top of the Side Panel with the edge border. Square it up as good as you can and with a very sharp pencil trace around the Door Panel.
Remove the Door Panel and draw a new line 1/16 inward around the entire Door Panel Trace.
This new Line around the Panel will need to be cut out very carefully.
the Panel will be used for the backer for the Door Panel Skin.
It also will align the Door every time you install it.
This is what you should have now.
Cleanup the edges and place the Door Panel back into the Side Panel Frame. Put Weldon all over the Door Panel but not close to the edges.
Lay the Door Panel Skin on top of the Panel and align it so it has a even space all around the sides.
Let it set for about 1 minute and ease the panel out of the Frame.
Turn it over and run a very light amount of Weldon around the edges.
Now you have a nice side panel with a opening door that needs to be applied to the foot.
Using tape to hold the Side Panel in place, Apply Weldon around the edges so the panel is bonded.
Let it dry some and remove the access door apply Weldon to the inside edges of the panel. DO NOT LET THE DOOR GET BONDED TO THE SIDE PANEL.
After the Side Panel has fully dried, Sand the sides so the edges fit perfect all the way around the foot.
Ok, This just about does it for the Foot build.
Sand the foot all over and get the corners real tight and smooth.
Any little imperfections will be hidden by the Skinning Process.
The best way I can tell you about Skinning is to overcut the skin for the area you are Skinning.
Apply Weldon to the foot area and lay the Skin on to the area and just message the Skin to smooth out the Weldon.
Then apply Weldon to all the edges and allow to dry.
Sand each area of Skin with a Mouse Sander with 220 Grit Sand Paper.
Keep the Sander flat and follow each angle of the foot as you sand.
Once you are done Skinning, Use Glazing Putty for small problems then Prime.